Tile Installation FAQ

The short answer is: it depends on what is under the existing surface. For a concrete slab, we check for cracks, moisture, and flatness — the TCNA standard allows no more than 1/8 inch variation over a 10-foot span for most tile installations. For wood subfloors, we assess the joist spacing, subfloor thickness, and deflection. If a floor flexes noticeably when you walk on it, tile will crack over time. We sometimes need to add a layer of cement backer board or a self-leveling underlayment before any tile goes down.

We inspect the substrate during the free walkthrough so there are no surprises once the job starts.

Surface prep is everything that happens before the first tile goes down. That means checking for flatness and fixing any high or low spots, cleaning the substrate so the adhesive bonds well, and — in wet areas like showers — applying a waterproof membrane. In bathrooms we also tape and seal seams and transitions before tiling.

Skipping or rushing prep is the main reason tile installations fail early. Tiles that pop, crack, or develop hollow spots usually trace back to a substrate that was not properly leveled or cleaned. We take prep seriously because fixing a failed installation is far more disruptive than doing it right the first time.

Always order more than the bare square footage. For a straight-lay pattern in a rectangular room, a 10% overage is reasonable. Diagonal patterns, herringbone, or any layout with a lot of cuts push that to 15–20%. You want extra for cuts, breakage during installation, and future repairs if a tile ever chips or cracks. Running out mid-job and needing to reorder from a different dye lot can result in visible color variation.

Use our tile estimator on the homepage to get a starting number, then confirm with us during the walkthrough.

Ceramic tile is fired clay with a glaze on top. It is relatively easy to cut, lighter, and suited for walls and low-traffic floors. Porcelain is a denser, harder ceramic fired at higher temperatures. It absorbs less water, is more durable, and works for floors, showers, and outdoor applications. Natural stone — marble, travertine, slate, limestone — has unique veining and texture but requires sealing and more careful maintenance. Each material also installs differently: large-format porcelain needs a flatter substrate, and natural stone often requires epoxy or polymer-modified thinset to prevent staining through the grout joints.

There are two main categories: cement-based grout (sanded for joints wider than 1/8 inch, unsanded for narrower) and epoxy grout. Cement grout is more common and workable, but it is porous and can stain without sealing. Epoxy grout is stain-resistant and does not need sealing, but it is harder to work with and typically costs more. For most residential kitchen and bathroom applications, cement grout sealed after installation is a solid choice. We use a penetrating sealer — not a surface coating — which soaks into the grout and resists moisture without changing the appearance.

Floor tile can generally go on walls, though the added weight requires proper substrate and adhesive. Wall tile is often thinner and not rated for floor use — it may crack under foot traffic or wheeled loads. Always check the tile's PEI rating (Porcelain Enamel Institute wear rating) before using it on a floor. A PEI of 3 or higher is recommended for residential floors. We review material specs during the planning phase so nothing gets installed in the wrong application.

A kitchen backsplash in a standard-size kitchen typically takes one to two days — one day for setting the tile and one for grouting after the thinset cures. A full bathroom tile job (floor, walls, shower surround) generally runs three to five days depending on complexity and whether demo is included. Large-format floor tile in an open-plan space can take longer because of the additional flatness requirements. We give you a timeline estimate along with the written quote, and we flag anything during demo that could affect it.

Thinset needs at least 24 hours to cure before grouting, and the grout needs another 24–72 hours depending on the product and humidity. For a shower, we recommend waiting a full 72 hours after grouting before using it with water. For floors, light foot traffic is usually fine after 24 hours, but avoid heavy loads or dragging furniture for at least 72 hours. We walk you through the specific curing times for the products used on your job before we leave.

You do not need to be present the entire time, but we do ask that someone is available at the start of the first day so we can confirm any last-minute layout decisions and identify where we are staging materials. After that initial check-in, most homeowners come and go freely. We will call or text if something unexpected comes up during the job that needs your input.